Around Copenhagen: Bellevue Beach

One of my very favorite things about Copenhagen, as I’m sure I’ve mentioned before, is its proximity to the sea. There’s water everywhere, and it’s awesome. We have the harbor, which is a central part of the city’s urban landscape, with key landmarks such as the Opera and the Royal Playhouse located on its edge. You can take a harbor bus, or rent boats, and even Sweden is within sailing distance.

We have the lovely canals of Holmen, Christianshavn, and Sluseholmen, and we have harbor baths to cool off in the summer. We have events that are centered around the water, such as the Red Bull cliff diving event, where world famous divers jump off the Opera building.

And we have beaches. Amager Strandpark, Charlottenlund Beach, Svanemølle Beach, and - one of the most famous, and in my opinion, most beautiful ones - Bellevue Beach.

Located in Klampenborg, just about 15 minutes North of Copenhagen, it’s approximately 700 meters long and located right off of Strandvejen, the famous coastal road that stretches along the East coast of Sjælland all the way up to Helsingør.

The beach is only about a 5 minute walk from the S-train station Klampenborg, and is in close vicinity to Dyrehaven park and the world’s oldest amusement park, Bakken.

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Spring in Copenhagen: Everyday vacation feeling

Ever since I can remember, I’ve wanted to live near water, preferably by the sea. I don’t particularly enjoy swimming in ocean water, because it’s salty and weird stuff keeps touching my legs and the ground is stony or covered in sharp sea shell fragments ready to cut my feet. But I love being at the beach, I love the smell of sea water (if it’s not too strong, of course!), the fresh breeze and the sounds of the water, the waves and the seagulls.

During the winter, which can feel eternally long, it’s not always easy to see the benefits of living close to the sea. The fresh breeze that I enjoy so much in the summer turns into icy cold winds of almost storm-like speeds, there’s ice everywhere, and it’s usually a couple of degrees colder than in the inland. But as soon as the first rays of sun come out and the temperatures creep up, it becomes just lovely. It makes me want to wrap myself tightly in a scarf and jacket and take a walk at the seaside, taking it all in.

When I moved to Copenhagen, I luckily found an area (more by accident then by design) that’s sometimes called “Copenhagen’s Little Venice”: Sluseholmen. It’s famous for its architectural design (sometimes we get groups of architecture students walking through our back yard taking notes) and the little canals and bridges separating the house blocks from each other. It gets its name from the watergate (sluse) located nearby. My favorite feature of the area is the row of little red boat houses at the waterfront, home to Valby Boat Club, which pose a striking contrast to the modern, clear-cut architecture of the apartment buildings.

The area offers many more great details, for example our own “havnebad” (harbor bath), where you can sunbathe and swim for free during the summer. There are many, many places to secure your boat, in fact many apartments on the ground floor actually have little ladders down to the water and their own docking places. At the watergate, there’s also a small shipyard where people can work on their own boats. We have two resident pairs of swans as well as different ducks and seagulls. Unfortunately, there are also some jellyfish in the water in the summer!

In German, there’s a phrase called “wohnen, wo andere Urlaub machen” - living where other people spend their vacation. In the spring and summer, it certainly feels that way here!

View from my balcony towards the watergate

Boats near the watergate

Boats near the watergate

Tradition meets modern

Tradition meets modern

A house boat at Teglholmen

A house boat at Teglholmen

A (somewhat typical) Danish Easter

For Easter Sunday, we went up to the family’s summer house in Rørvig for a day full of food and Easter shenanigans! Last year, we were extremely unlucky with the weather, which was partially because Easter was about three weeks earlier, and partially because … Denmark. Anyway, this year, the weather continued to be spring-like, warm and sunny - perfect Easter weather!

So we took up to Rørvig and actually managed a quick trip to the harbor and the beach, before heading over to start the food frenzy.

Rørvig harbor

Panorama shot of Rørvig beach

Panorama shot of Rørvig beach


The next couple of hours were spent around the large Easter table, trying to taste as many of the delicious dishes as possible. If you’ve ever been invited to a classic Danish holiday (Christmas, Easter,…) you’ll know that you won’t go hungry!

Easter impressions

Easter impressions


First, fish dishes are served. This includes cold dishes such as “rejer” (shrimp) with mayonnaise, “sild” (marinated herring), either in a pure version or with a creamy curry sauce (“karrysild”), of course no Danish table could ever be complete without “fiskefiletter” (fish filets in a panade) with the classic remoulade sauce.


Fish dishes

Fish dishes


After the fish dishes, you might already feel pretty full, but don’t think for a second that you’re done! Because now is when the Danes pull out all the classic meat dishes, such as “flæskesteg” (roast pork with crispy crackling), “frikadeller” (meat balls) and “leverpostej” (liver paste) with bacon. These are accompanied by the classic “rødkål” (red cabbage), among others. Of course there’s always bread so you can make your own “smørrebrød” variations of the dishes. One of my favorite Danish Easter dishes is “tarteletter”, a thick gravy with cubed chicken and asparagus served in small shells of buttery puff pastry.


Meat dishes


To wash down all of this food, the Danes like to drink specialty beers called “Påskebryg” (Easter brew) or “Forårsbryg” (Spring brew). The Danes love their specialty beers, another good example is “Julebryg” (Christmas brew), which, along with Easter brew, has been cultivated by Tuborg and their “kylle kylle” commercials with the little yellow birds/ chicks.

Obviously, the “snaps” is also flowing freely, and before you know, you will have “skål”-ed more times than you can count. This is actually quite dangerous, especially if you, like me, didn’t eat any breakfast in anticipation of the feast - you’ll feel the snaps very quickly!!

After lunch, it was time for some “egg hunting” out in the garden, where someone (the Easter bunny, maybe?) had hidden some chocolate eggs for everyone to find. My boyfriend’s family also has a tradition of painting hard-boiled eggs and then having them “fight” against each other in a game called “æggetrilling”, where the goal is to roll your egg against your opponents’ in an attempt to crack them and ultimately destroy them. Last egg standing wins! It is good fun, and it’s a great excuse to go outside and “walk off” the tiredness from all the food and snaps.

Afterwards, there is of course more food, namely cheese and cakes with coffee (plus more beer and snaps). Afterwards, we went back to the beach and managed to catch an incredibly beautiful sunset. It was one of the most amazing things I’ve ever seen. The calm and quiet at the beach, only a soft breeze and the soft sounds of the waves, and the sun setting in brilliant red, orange, yellow colors… I tried to take pictures, but they don’t nearly capture the actual beauty of it.

foto 5 (4)

Shadows playing in the sunset

Sunset panorama


How did you spend Easter? What traditions do you have? And is your stomach still aching, too?!

Happy Easter!